Continuing on my Colette Patterns lovefest I made the Jasmine Blouse this week using a lovely ligh...

Springtime Jasmine Blouse

1:37:00 p.m. Sew Hopeful 9 Comments

Continuing on my Colette Patterns lovefest I made the Jasmine Blouse this week using a lovely lightweight cotton voile (Spotlight, of course, the only fabric shop I have been able to get to in months).

Anyway, feeling confident after making the blue Peony I decided to ditch the muslin and go right ahead, and I made the following adjustments before cutting out the pattern:
  • Small Bust Adjustment (lapped lines 3/8"/9mm)
  • Moved bust darts, determined placement by holding up tissue pattern to front.
  • Forward shoulder adjustment of 3/8" (smidge under 1cm) for shoulder seams and then the sleeve. 
  • Narrow shoulder adjustment using the method from the Colette website.
  • Cut a straight size 2.  I usually grade out in the hips but didn't need to do this for this pattern.
  • Cut a size 6 sleeve cuff as it seemed a bit tight otherwise.
I love the sleeves, glad I made the cuffs a bit looser.

 Once I had the pattern cut out I pinned together and based on that made the following further adjustments:
  •  Trimmed off a bit from both front and back centre seams at top to remove gape at front and back neck. I think I took off a good 1/2"/1cm, tapering down to nothing just past the bust darts.
  • Added some back neck darts as well.
  • Adjusted the curve at the back of the sleeve, shaving off a bit more (more forward shoulder stuff going on there).  I seem to need the back curve of the sleeve to be quite "flat" to fit my shape.
  • Recut a new sleeve cuff in a size 10 to get a more comfortable fit.
Whew, seems like alot of adjustments but all that is fairly typical for me.

The bias cut and back seam gives a perfect fit.  No sway back alteration needed.

I'm glad I left the cutting out of the neck facings and collar until after I had the body all sewn together so I could transfer the final adjustments to these pieces.

I now have a TNT blouse pattern that fits me great.  I love the beautiful drape and bias cut of the blouse.  The collar sits beautifully and I really liked the way the collar and facings are attached.  Normally I am not a fan of facings but in this case they worked beautifully.

So the firsts for me for this pattern are:
  • First time sewing a bias garment.
  • First SBA (which resulted in a great fit)
Side view, Colette Jasmine.  The forward shoulder adjustment
made a HUGE difference to the comfort and fit. 

Am planning a couple more of these in some voile fabric for summer, including a sleeveless version, which I think will be really cute.

Next up: Colette Juniper Pants, in a black cotton sateen (so far looking great), Simplicity 1872 (I'm really excited about that one, its my first chiffon project) and a New Look 6808 in a cotton lace.


  1. Very pretty blouse and excellent work on getting a great fit!

    1. Thank you Sharon. I love it when you tell me I got the fit right as it means a lot coming from you! BTW recently found out you won SWAP 2012! Wow! That's awesome.

  2. I'm following your blog after seeing this on Burdastyle. truly lovely!

    1. Thanks Claire! Always nice to make a new sewing buddy. Plus your Burda profile description could have been written by me so we have a lot in common. I'm just off to look at your blog....

  3. Your work is exquisite. I'm so glad I found your blog via the Colette Patterns flickr group.

  4. This is a beautiful top! I just got this pattern the other day. I hope mine turns out as well as yours!

  5. This looks awesome! I have this one and I really should make it again soon!

  6. Thank you so much for commenting on my blog, mostly because I've just 'discovered' you blog, but also because you've won my fabric give away!!! Congrats ;-)
    You've made some really gorgeous stuff - this blouse is no exception!


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